En cherche d’amour

Terrace of a café at night- Vincent van Gogh

Setting: an ordinary street in Paris, one of those charming boulevards in tones of gold. Character: Carol, a slightly chubby middle-aged American tourist who captivates us as soon as we see her walking wearing sweatpants and a belt pack around her waist. A voice reading an essay describes a recent trip to the French capital, in a correct, but accented French is heard. It is Carol in her language course.

We get to know Paris through the eyes of this friendly postal worker from Denver.  Used to entering people's lives delivering bills, letters and secrets, she comes into our own lives and souls, through the moving way in which she looks at the world around her. 14ème Arrondissement is the title of this beautiful story that is part of the movie, Paris, je t’aime.

Although she walks alone through the streets in Paris, her trip is not a lonely one. All of us who are watching the movie travel along with her. As she goes on reading her essay we can picture ourselves in the streets and squares through which she walks. We share her experiences, we recognize the same frustrating expectations but also the amazing fascinating power this beautiful city has on us.

"They say Paris is the city of love, but at my age I do not have such expectations," Carol tells us. The camera pulls away from the character and shows a general view of the restaurant where she dines alone. We look at the tables around her and come across ordinary people, eating their dinners and drinking their wines. If there is any love there, it is for the everyday things in life.

A story told by one of my uncles came to my mind. He was studying in Paris in the early 70's and working as a doorman at a hotel in the Rive Gauche. A German guest had come to the "city of love" excited by the prospect of living a great love affair. At eight o'clock sharp, he left the hotel in a good mood, ready to enjoy his first night in Paris.

He had pictured how that special night would be time and again. He would go to an authentic Parisian café, with cozy tables placed inside it and on the sidewalk.  He would sit at a table outside the café, where he could see people going by, through the lively city streets. A very friendly waiter would serve him gently, pleased to serve such a special customer. He would have a rare steak and a wonderful French wine. Meanwhile, the song La Vie en Rose would be playing in the background, as if welcoming him to town. A beautiful woman would sit alone at the next table. They would exchange shy glances at first and little by little they would become more daring. They would end the night together, under the Eiffel Tower, looking into each other’s eyes, completely in love.

Two hours later he was back in the hotel. No Catherine Deneuve had sat beside him and the waiter was rude and impatient like most Parisians are. Not even Edith Piaf had showed up there! He asked the concierge to serve him a beer in his room: he would drink alone that night.   
C'est la vie...